🔗 Share this article

While recent appointments at Dior and Chanel sparked plenty of noise during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the inaugural presentation from Balenciaga that truly captivated the press coverage. The show featured a unexpected guest: Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, making her first European appearance in a trio of years.

On Saturday night in Paris, the glamour and excitement of other major houses – plus another high-profile guest – were all outshone with the sheer impact of the Balenciaga show.

The Duchess delivered significant glamour and excitement to Balenciaga’s Paris show.

Prior to the event, the general mood surrounding Piccioli's inaugural collection had been relatively serene. The fashion house is a time-honored label, and the creative force is widely recognized as a master of his craft. Additionally, he is beloved for his status as the kindest personality in the business. The general expectation was that extravagant catwalk stunts had exited the house of Balenciaga with the exit of Demna, known for his bold style to Gucci. But, occasionally the kindest people spring a few shocks, and the presence of a duchess dramatically heightened the overall excitement.

The designer sees himself as an architect, building forms that avoid direct contact with the wearer's physique.

Notably, the central theme of what he called his manifesto, as he detailed it behind the scenes, was the empowerment of women. His initial inspiration was Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1957 sack dress, a outline that stands away from the body, neither amplifying nor restricting a woman’s curves. The designer explained that this design was a powerful manifestation of a shifting zeitgeist that was shifting away from the post-war traditionalism towards the liberation of the 1960s. The idea centered on advancement for females. It released women from the constraints of clothing that emphasize the physical form and focus on their anatomy. That garment allowed women to move freely.”

Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes were featured in the runway, such as this structured outerwear.

Apparel with independent structure are central to the identity of Balenciaga. He likened this creative process to being an structural designer: building forms that never make contact with the body, while always thinking about the people who will occupy these creations. “Cristóbal Balenciaga was fascinated by the physique and with textiles, and with a third element – the gap separating them.”

The opening look was a modern reinterpretation of the iconic dress, lengthened to an ankle-skimming hem, paired with elegant gloves – but also with wraparound bug-eye sunglasses that functioned as a clear homage to the futuristic edge of the brand's recent past.

The designer, who at his current age wears strings of beads and charms and exudes an calm, bohemian vibe, does not view seeing fashion as an ego battle. He states that it is “cooler” for designers to appreciate each other’s talents. The creative director mentioned that he was seeking a harmonious balance between the haute couture heritage of the brand, and its more modern casual influences. Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes were prominently featured in the show: a structured coat, this time in a vibrant poison green, and a trapeze dress in a powerful violet tone.

The phenomenon of effortless French fashion has become a lucrative industry. Michael Rider is an transatlantic figure, but he understands this aesthetic perfectly. He collaborated closely with a fashion icon during her period as creative director, and then worked for several years developing Polo Ralph Lauren into a flagship for accessible taste. In his current role, he is introducing the democratic approach of American style to French fashion. The collection featured timeless coats, straw baskets, and luxury fabrics tied around bags – the signature details of Parisian elegance – executed in sunny colors, with an upbeat American tone. “Céline isn’t a mean brand, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” the designer explained after the show. “I hope that everyone feels desirable in the brand. By choosing these pieces, you may not have the most outrageous item, but you have the finest outerwear, and you have the confidence to wear it.”